Let's go camping! It didn’t seem to be a first of April joke, yes of course! We got to Kylesku after dinner time and paddled the 5 km to Glencoul bothy on a very flat sealoch/fjord.

We got there at dark, and saw a little light at the bothy. We were just about to meet our friend for the evening, a hiker who was warming up at a fire and drying out his clothes after having been snowed upon all day. Unexpected storytelling evenings are one of the charms of bothies, which are buildings located in wild areas where you can stay for free. There are no facilities, it’s a first come first serve, and you leave them cleaner as you found it. But always bring a tent, as they can be busy. Expect the unexpected.

The clouds went away, and with absolutely no light pollution there were so many stars that there was almost no sky left for them to be in. Amazing. But cold! Time to head to the sleeping bag.

The next morning we read and went for a run, then paddled to Eas a' Chual Aluinn, the highest waterfall in the United Kingdom. No signs, no obvious trails, just in the middle of the wilderness. This waterfall has a sheer drop of about 200 m and when in full flow it is over three times higher than Niagara Falls. Pretty amazing, we had some fun scrambling around and exploring some lower pools and just watching it.

The wind had picked up a little, so that paddling back was a bit harder, but we made it around lunchtime. We left from a dock in front of a hotel/restaurant, and a couple stopped and told us that they saw us leave the day before, and were wondering where we were going in the dark. Small world.